COMEDOGENIC RATINGS: WHY I IGNORE THEM
The comedogenic scale was originally created to rate the tendency of a skincare ingredient to clog pores. The idea of comedogenic products and their effect on the skin was first introduced in 1970s by Albert Klingman and James Fulton and was based originally on tests conducted on rabbit ears. There are plenty of products that like to boast a low comedogenic rating and even professional skincare companies that educate estheticians on how to spot so-called comedogenic ingredients, however, I find this concept outdated and unreliable for many reasons.
First of all, the rating is based on a single ingredient not on the product which has other ingredients and different amounts and combinations. I feel that focusing on one ingredient just doesn’t give you the whole picture. This seems like a no-brainer to me.
Second….a comedone or pimple is caused by hyperkeratosis or the build up of dead cells within the pore/follicle. It’s not about the product getting in the pore, it’s about the skin’s response to the product. It takes 4-8 weeks for a comedone to form and consistent application of a product to stimulate the skin. Products cannot clog a pore with a one time use. It takes weeks for the skin to respond with hyperkeratosis.
Why does the product cause hyperkeratosis? It's simply a protective response from the skin. Your skin should be able to tolerate ingredients, in most cases if a product is causing breakouts or irritation, your skin probably has barrier problems.
It’s not just a surface issue either. If your body is deficient in certain skin-protective nutrients like EFAs (Essential Fatty Acids) or Vitamin B, you will likely be more sensitive to certain ingredients. That's why a product can cause a protective response in some people and not others. Which is another reason I find the comedogenic rating or scale to not be reliable.
When you build up the health of your skin’s barrier, you’ll find that you have less bad reactions to products. I have experienced this with my own skin. For many years I tried to “dry-up” my acne with various harsh treatments and overusing exfoliating acids. Once I moved away from that method and started nurturing my skin barrier with good nutrition and Corneotherapy-based treatments it was a game changer. I can now use products that used to break me out or cause me irritation with no more problems.
So my advice is to simply ignore the word “non-comedogenic” or any comedogenic rating and simply start focusing on getting that healthy skin barrier. Need help in this area? Feel free to reach out to me, we’ll get there together!
Disclaimer: This blog provides general information and discussions about skin health and related subjects. The information and other content provided in this blog, or in any linked materials, are not intended and should not be construed as medical advice, nor is the information a substitute for professional medical expertise or treatment.